March 18, 2015 (Wednesday) – Pforzheim Schmuckmuseum (Pforzheim Jewellery Museum)

In between our travelling from Munich to Idar-Oberstein by train, we went to the Schmuckmuseum (Jewellery Museum) in Pforzheim, which is dedicated to only jewellery. I went through most of the exhibitions starting from the Ethnographic Jewellery Collection but took the longest time in the Historical Collection. I liked the variety of jewellery and objects from the different periods – Roman Empire, Egyptian, Classical Greek, Renaissance, Baroque, and so on. I noticed the extensive usage of gold (and how amazingly thin it could go) and gemstones as well as the application of patina, whether intentionally or accumulated over time.

My last stop was at the contemporary section, which I kind of regretted because it was such a refreshing mini collections of pieces ranging from Art Deco to New Jewellery Until Today. As much as I enjoyed looking at traditional jewellery, I preferred the contemporary ones as they were closer to what I would like to do in my practice. At the entrance of the room, there was a display of jewellery tools and opposite that are drawers of several samples of jewellery techniques.

Range of Jewellery Tools Displayed at Pforzheim Schmuckmuseum in Germany

Measuring and Marking, Scoring, Drilling and Saw Piercing (Jewellery Techniques) Samples Displayed at Pforzheim Schmuckmuseum in Germany

There were so many remarkable works by artist jewellers, some of which we have visited in Munich like Peter Bauhuis, and others that we will be visiting in Amsterdam like Ruudt Peters. Because of my love for geometry, the Art Deco Collection was a feast for my eyes especially Rene Boivin’s c.1925 rock crystal, platinum, sapphires, and diamonds bangle. From the New Jewellery after 1950 Collection, I loved Hermann Junger’s 1995 gold brooch while from the New Materials in Jewellery – which showcases gold and silver jewellery combined with other materials such as plastic (particularly acrylic and polyester) and paper, – I was captivated by Peter Chang’s 2002 colourful and sea life-inspired acrylic and polyester bracelet. Other featured works were by the renowned Otto Kunzli and Gijs Bakker. Some of my favourites from the New Jewellery Until Today Collection were Karl Fritsch’s 2001 silver and sapphire ring, Iris Bodemer’s 2008 silver, onyx, hematite, mirror, and linen neck jewellery, and Giampaolo Babetto’s 1968 blackened gold necklace and 1989 gold ring. Other distinguishing pieces were by Warwick Freeman and Robert Baines.

Top to Bottom: Rene Boivin, Bangle, c. 1925. Rock crystal, platinum, sapphires, diamonds
Hermann Junger, Brooch, 1995. Gold
Peter Chang, Bracelet, 2002. Acrylic, polyester

Top to Bottom Left to Right: Karl Fritsch, Ring, 2001. Silver, sapphires (left)
Iris Bodemer, Neck Jewellery, 2008. Silver, onyx, hematite, mirror, linen
Giampaolo Babetto, Necklace, 1968. Blackened gold
Giampaolo Babetto, Ring, 1989. Gold

Before, materials such as paper and plastic were regarded as low value but today, they are commonly being used by contemporary jewellers in combination with precious metals. I, myself have become fascinated with plastic because of the wide range of types available and the variety of applications that can be used. Our world today is full of plastics because they are cheap to manufacture and are also lighter compared to other materials like glass and metal. Plastic can be found almost everywhere – in our homes, in our school, in the supermarkets – becoming a staple part of our lives.

Gone were the days when jewellery was all about gold and gemstones. Today is an era of new jewellery, where every material is possible.